AA5 6
Description: The common wiring method involved one side of the line cord connecting to a pin on the rectifier tube, while the other side connected to one terminal of the on/off switch. The other terminal of the on/off switch was connected to the chassis. When the radio was plugged in, the chassis was "cold." This configuration meant that the bottom prong of the plug was connected to the power line neutral. Initially, this setup functioned properly; however, upon turning the radio off, the top prong of the plug became connected to the hot side of the power line. The tube heaters, which have a very low resistance (approximately 100 ohms), created a direct connection from the hot side of the power line to the chassis of the radio. This posed a significant risk, as a clip lead connected from the radio chassis to a water pipe would allow the radio to operate. If part of a person's body completed this circuit instead, it could result in serious injury or death.
Before modifying the radio, it is advisable to purchase a polarized two-prong plug extension cord, which is typically inexpensive. The old power cord should be cut away, leaving short pieces attached to the rectifier tube and switch. If the insulation on the old cord is intact, enough wire should be left to reach the switch; otherwise, it should be replaced with wire from the extension cord. The new cord should be cut to the desired length, and the excess socket end should be discarded. The new cord must be threaded through the chassis hole, positioned near the switch and rectifier tube, with sufficient extra length to ensure secure connections. The new line cord should be secured similarly to the old one, for example, by tying a knot. The two wires should be separated for a few inches, and about a quarter-inch of insulation stripped from the ends. The fine strands of wire should be twisted tightly and tinned with solder to hold them together.
Next, the wire connected from one side of the switch to the chassis should be removed. The wire connected to the rectifier tube socket must be stripped and tinned, then connected to the terminal of the switch from which the chassis grounding wire was removed. This wire should be soldered in place. The old line cord piece connected to the other terminal of the switch should also be removed. The wire coming from the narrow prong of the new line cord should be soldered to that terminal of the switch, enhancing the safety of the radio. However, the safest practice is to use an isolation transformer, with a minimum rating of 30 watts, to provide additional safety while working on the radio.
If an isolation transformer is not available, a small night light can be permanently connected to the power ground, with the other side terminating in a test wire. This wire can be used to check the radio chassis; if the light illuminates, the plug should be reversed. Testing should also be conducted with the switch off. In cases where a safe method of turning the radio on and off is desired, a plug strip with a switch can be used.
It is also recommended to install a ground fault interrupter (GFI) outlet for powering the radio. GFI outlets are commonly found in bathrooms and provide an additional layer of safety. If the radio is intended to remain in a fixed location, replacing the existing outlet with a GFI outlet is advisable, although this should be performed by someone with electrical skills. However, if the radio is moved frequently, the GFI outlet requirement may be overlooked. Therefore, employing a GFI outlet or an isolation transformer is crucial for ensuring safety while operating older radio equipment.The common wiring method had one side of the line cord going to a pin on the rectifier tube and the other side going to one terminal of the on/off switch. The other terminal of the on/off switch went to chassis. Suppose you plugged it in so the chassis was "cold" when the radio was turned on. That would mean that the bottom prong of the plug was c onnected to the power line neutral. Everything would be fine until you turned the radio off. Now the top prong of the plug is connected to the hot side of the power line. The tube heaters are cold and have a very low resistance (very approximately 100 ohms). This resistance is connected from the hot side of the power line to the chassis of the radio. You could connect a clip lead from the radio chassis to a water pipe and the radio would come on and play. If part of your body should complete the circuit instead of a clip lead you might never play again. Before starting to modify the radio go to a discount store and buy a polarized 2 prong plug extension cord.
They are usually a dollar or less. Cut away the old power cord but leave short pieces of it on the rectifier tube and switch. If the insulation is in good shape (not always the case in these old sets) leave enough wire to reach to the switch. If the insulation on the old cord is rotten replace it with a piece of wire cut from the extension cord.
Decide how long you want the new cord on the radio to be and cut the cord that length from the plug end. You will most likely never find a use for the socket end so cut off the extra cord, save it, and throw the socket end away.
Thread the new cord in through the chassis hole. Position the end of the cord near where it is to be connected, the on/off switch and rectifier tube. Leave enough extra to be sure it will be long enough after being secured. Secure the new line cord in the same manner that the old one was, for example tying a knot in it. Separate the two wires for a couple of inches, and strip about 1/4 inch of insulation off the ends of the wires. Twist the fine strands of wire tightly together and melt a small amount of solder over them to hold the strands together.
This is known as tinning the wire. Now remove the wire connected from one side of the switch to the chassis. Strip and tin the piece of wire connected to the rectifier tube socket. Connect this wire to the terminal of the switch you just removed the chassis grounding wire from. Solder the wire in place. Remove the piece of old line cord from the other terminal of the switch. Solder the wire coming from the NARROW prong of the new line cord to that terminal of the switch. This will make the radio much safer to work on but the safest way to work on these sets is to obtain and use an isolation transformer. The minimum you need is a 30 watt transformer. A higher wattage unit would give you more flexibility. It may cost you some money but how much is your life worth. If you think you are immortal or just want to live dangerously there isn`t much I can say to you. If you decide to work without an isolation transformer get one of those small night lights and permanently connect one side of it to the power ground and terminate the other in a test wire.
Touch the wire to the radio chassis. If the light lights up reverse the plug. Test it with the switch off. If there is no right way, plug the radio into a plug strip with a switch and use that to turn the radio on and off. "These are excellent suggestions. However, I would suggest taking these steps further, by providing a ground fault interrupter (GFI) outlet for powering the radio.
These outlets are often found in bathrooms. If the radio is to stay in one place, the outlet that the radio plugs into can be replaced with a GFI outlet. However, replacing the outlet requires electrician skills. Furthermore, the radio may get moved, and the GFI outlet requirement forgotten at the new location. A better solution is a G
Before modifying the radio, it is advisable to purchase a polarized two-prong plug extension cord, which is typically inexpensive. The old power cord should be cut away, leaving short pieces attached to the rectifier tube and switch. If the insulation on the old cord is intact, enough wire should be left to reach the switch; otherwise, it should be replaced with wire from the extension cord. The new cord should be cut to the desired length, and the excess socket end should be discarded. The new cord must be threaded through the chassis hole, positioned near the switch and rectifier tube, with sufficient extra length to ensure secure connections. The new line cord should be secured similarly to the old one, for example, by tying a knot. The two wires should be separated for a few inches, and about a quarter-inch of insulation stripped from the ends. The fine strands of wire should be twisted tightly and tinned with solder to hold them together.
Next, the wire connected from one side of the switch to the chassis should be removed. The wire connected to the rectifier tube socket must be stripped and tinned, then connected to the terminal of the switch from which the chassis grounding wire was removed. This wire should be soldered in place. The old line cord piece connected to the other terminal of the switch should also be removed. The wire coming from the narrow prong of the new line cord should be soldered to that terminal of the switch, enhancing the safety of the radio. However, the safest practice is to use an isolation transformer, with a minimum rating of 30 watts, to provide additional safety while working on the radio.
If an isolation transformer is not available, a small night light can be permanently connected to the power ground, with the other side terminating in a test wire. This wire can be used to check the radio chassis; if the light illuminates, the plug should be reversed. Testing should also be conducted with the switch off. In cases where a safe method of turning the radio on and off is desired, a plug strip with a switch can be used.
It is also recommended to install a ground fault interrupter (GFI) outlet for powering the radio. GFI outlets are commonly found in bathrooms and provide an additional layer of safety. If the radio is intended to remain in a fixed location, replacing the existing outlet with a GFI outlet is advisable, although this should be performed by someone with electrical skills. However, if the radio is moved frequently, the GFI outlet requirement may be overlooked. Therefore, employing a GFI outlet or an isolation transformer is crucial for ensuring safety while operating older radio equipment.The common wiring method had one side of the line cord going to a pin on the rectifier tube and the other side going to one terminal of the on/off switch. The other terminal of the on/off switch went to chassis. Suppose you plugged it in so the chassis was "cold" when the radio was turned on. That would mean that the bottom prong of the plug was c onnected to the power line neutral. Everything would be fine until you turned the radio off. Now the top prong of the plug is connected to the hot side of the power line. The tube heaters are cold and have a very low resistance (very approximately 100 ohms). This resistance is connected from the hot side of the power line to the chassis of the radio. You could connect a clip lead from the radio chassis to a water pipe and the radio would come on and play. If part of your body should complete the circuit instead of a clip lead you might never play again. Before starting to modify the radio go to a discount store and buy a polarized 2 prong plug extension cord.
They are usually a dollar or less. Cut away the old power cord but leave short pieces of it on the rectifier tube and switch. If the insulation is in good shape (not always the case in these old sets) leave enough wire to reach to the switch. If the insulation on the old cord is rotten replace it with a piece of wire cut from the extension cord.
Decide how long you want the new cord on the radio to be and cut the cord that length from the plug end. You will most likely never find a use for the socket end so cut off the extra cord, save it, and throw the socket end away.
Thread the new cord in through the chassis hole. Position the end of the cord near where it is to be connected, the on/off switch and rectifier tube. Leave enough extra to be sure it will be long enough after being secured. Secure the new line cord in the same manner that the old one was, for example tying a knot in it. Separate the two wires for a couple of inches, and strip about 1/4 inch of insulation off the ends of the wires. Twist the fine strands of wire tightly together and melt a small amount of solder over them to hold the strands together.
This is known as tinning the wire. Now remove the wire connected from one side of the switch to the chassis. Strip and tin the piece of wire connected to the rectifier tube socket. Connect this wire to the terminal of the switch you just removed the chassis grounding wire from. Solder the wire in place. Remove the piece of old line cord from the other terminal of the switch. Solder the wire coming from the NARROW prong of the new line cord to that terminal of the switch. This will make the radio much safer to work on but the safest way to work on these sets is to obtain and use an isolation transformer. The minimum you need is a 30 watt transformer. A higher wattage unit would give you more flexibility. It may cost you some money but how much is your life worth. If you think you are immortal or just want to live dangerously there isn`t much I can say to you. If you decide to work without an isolation transformer get one of those small night lights and permanently connect one side of it to the power ground and terminate the other in a test wire.
Touch the wire to the radio chassis. If the light lights up reverse the plug. Test it with the switch off. If there is no right way, plug the radio into a plug strip with a switch and use that to turn the radio on and off. "These are excellent suggestions. However, I would suggest taking these steps further, by providing a ground fault interrupter (GFI) outlet for powering the radio.
These outlets are often found in bathrooms. If the radio is to stay in one place, the outlet that the radio plugs into can be replaced with a GFI outlet. However, replacing the outlet requires electrician skills. Furthermore, the radio may get moved, and the GFI outlet requirement forgotten at the new location. A better solution is a G
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